Quick [tech] Questions Thread

[Margalis]

The "buttons" are touch sensitive pads, not actual buttons. I did try messing around with them a bit but to no effect.

[rattran]

Hit them with a hammer. Then replace your monitor.

Or try to clean them with a cloth first, my samsung kept turning on and off when there was some gunk on the touch button.

[Strazos]

Anyone remember when I was looking to buy a UPS?

Well, it got here last week. I go to plug it into my transformer when I see a problem - the plug is...weird. Turns out it's a NEMA 5-20 spec plug, which I've never seen before, and my transformer only accepts "normal" 5-15 plugs. It looks like I could buy something like this (http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-1F515520-1-Foot-15-Amp-Adapter/dp/B00439KIF6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1324226943&sr=8-8) to get the right plug configuration...but does anyone thing that'd be a problem? Doesn't seem to me that giving the UPS 15 amps when it can accept 20 amps should hurt anything, but what do I know?

My maintenance guys were ready to perform surgery on the plug to "convert" it to a 15 amp plug, but I'd like to avoid cutting up my expensive UPS if at all possible.

[Sheepherder]

Likely not a big deal, a few of the UPS manufacturers seem to sell adapters that do exactly that.  Probably will recharge the battery backup slowly though.

[Chimpy]

You need to make sure that the UPS you bought can actually handle input current at or below 15A before you go adapting things or changing plugs. You could very easily start a fire if you pull too many amps through a 5-15P (which is why there are different plug types for different amperages).

[Strazos]

Good to know - how would I actually determine that? The UPS is this model: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102090 I see frequency measured in hz, but nothing about amperage.

[Chimpy]

Check the label on the side of the ups all electronic/electrical devices say what their electricity use is on that panel.

[Viin]

Anyone have experience using a mini amp to power good-sized speakers for computer audio? Maybe something along the lines of these two?

Scythe's Kama Bay Amp
NuForce Icon

[Chimpy]

Anyone have experience using a mini amp to power good-sized speakers for computer audio? Maybe something along the lines of these two?

Scythe's Kama Bay Amp
NuForce Icon

How big are the speakers? You need to make sure you have an amp powerful enough to drive them. Just as many speakers are blown from being underpowered than are blown from being overpowered.

I used to use a mini-bookshelf stereo as my "speakers" for my computer, used one of the line ins and always got great sound.

For the price of that Nu-Force you could just buy a pair of M-Audio AV40 powered monitors which will probably give you a lot better sound. Or, for less than $100 you could do the Alesis M1Active320USB monitors. I love my M-Audio BX-5s but those are "used" for my turntables so I bought the M1Actives for my PC speakers and am very happy with them, especially for the price (they have the same wattage amp built in as the one you linked). One big advantage to using monitors is that they are always shielded so you can use them close to other equipment and not have magnetism issues, though unless you are using a CRT still you probably would not notice the lack of shielding.

Of course, the whole "some people don't like studio monitor sound" argument Ingmar will bring up comes into play if you go with monitors.

[Viin]

They are floor speakers from Bose, 7-8 years old. Just found the manual for them online, and it says they are compatible with 10-200 watt/channel receivers, 4-8 ohms. I believe they are 100 watts.

I got rid of my old 100lb receiver and though I'd hook these up to the comp for playing music through.

The speakers you mention below look interesting though, will look some more ..

[Hawkbit]

I went from $100 Bose PC speakers to M-Audio AV40s about a year ago.  I didn't like their 'boomyness' for the first few days, so I returned them and tried a few other pairs.  I ended up returning them all and went back to the AV40s.  After about a week of use, the AV40s just 'clicked' with me and they are without question the best PC speakers I have owned.  Buy them. 

[Trippy]

Note that M-Audio is now selling newer gimped versions of the AV40 that are cheaper but have less power per channel (15 watts vs 20 watts).

[Hawkbit]

Wow, that's shady.  I've got the 20s and they're worth it.  Can't comment on the 15s.

[vex]

I had AV-30's  and they just did not last and truthfully I was never really happy with them.  When they did die I decided to move away from the integrated amplifier.  I looked at the NuForce but thought they were pricey.  I ended up with a DTA-100a from Parts Express and a set of somewhat inexpensive bookshelf speakers.  For the price I've been much happier with this combo than any PC speakers I've owned in the past.

[Chimpy]

Wow, that's shady.  I've got the 20s and they're worth it.  Can't comment on the 15s.

You don't necessarily need a big amp when the amp is integrated. You lose a lot of that power over cable runs which you don't have to worry about when the amp is inside there.

[Viin]

I ended up with a DTA-100a from Parts Express and a set of somewhat inexpensive bookshelf speakers.

Oo that might be a good option. The M-Audio speakers look nice, but they are bit big to fit on my desk and a bit small to sit on the floor. I'll mockup a box that fits their size and see if I can get them to sit on my desk somehow ..

[Trippy]

Get some monitor speaker stands that are height adjustable (they really dhould be at ear level) and put them behind your desk.

[Sheepherder]

You need to make sure that the UPS you bought can actually handle input current at or below 15A before you go adapting things or changing plugs. You could very easily start a fire if you pull too many amps through a 5-15P (which is why there are different plug types for different amperages).

The cord he intends to buy is purpose-built to do the conversion, it shouldn't ignite.  Just like those dollar store extension cords shouldn't ignite.  How well the transformer or UPS likes it is a question for the manufacturer.

[rattran]

I'd be more worried about the wires in the walls igniting from too heavy a draw.

[Strazos]

Well, the transformer is converting from 220 down to 110.

I asked my maintenance folks at work as well. They didn't seem concerned, for whatever that's worth. 

[Sky]

I've never seen a maintenance guy get concerned over anything. Ever.

[Chimpy]

I've never seen a maintenance guy get concerned over anything. Ever.

This. Most maintenance guys don't know much about electricity beyond how to change a lightbulb.

[Hawkbit]

I am looking to upgrade my monitor from a 20.1" Dell 2005 into a 24" or 27".  Any recommendations?  Usage will be about 50% gaming, 50% web dev/schoolwork.  I'm looking for a good balance between price and quality, if possible. 

[Trippy]

What does "web dev" mean? If you are doing any graphic design work involving color I would strongly recommend staying as far away from TN panels as possible.

[Hawkbit]

Yeah, I'm in school for design, but just starting to get into my graphics classes now.  What other options are there from TN panels?  CRTs, or something I'm less familiar with?

Upon reading further, is IPS the way to go, then?

[Trippy]

There are different panel technologies used in LCD displays -- the main ones for desktop computer displays being TN, MVA/PVA, and IPS. If you are doing graphic design work I would get a low end IPS display. Those have the best color reproduction everything else being equal. TN panels are almost always 6 bits per color instead of the normal 8 bits so they have to "dither" the missing colors. The down sides with IPS are that they are more expensive and their refresh rates aren't as good.

[Hawkbit]

Thanks, reading on that tech now.  It narrows things down a bit.  Any brands stick out as general winners/losers?  Samsung and Dell were both decent when I bought four years ago.

[Trippy]

Upon reading further, is IPS the way to go, then?

Yes get something like a Dell U2412M.

[Trippy]

Thanks, reading on that tech now.  It narrows things down a bit.  Any brands stick out as general winners/losers?  Samsung and Dell were both decent when I bought four years ago.

At the low end it doesn't matter much. If you were doing this professionally there are special monitors you can get which cost a lot that have features that make the colors they produce even more accurate.

[Hawkbit]

Thanks a ton, that's a great start.  Much appreciated.

[Engels]

Being a monitor nut myself, what Trippy said.

[Chimpy]

It is too bad we can't sticky inside of a thread. I swear I knew exactly what Trippy was going to say about LCD panels based on the seven or eight other times the topic has come up in this thread.

[Sheepherder]

I hate Dell with an irrational fiery passion, but their monitors are pretty sweet.

[Trippy]

I just read a review of a Dell 23" e-IPS monitor with a 6-bit display Fucking marketing people. If you want to get an IPS display you'll need to verify that it's an 8-bit display.

[Engels]

I tell you, they're cutting corners these days. Wait till IPS becomes a 'buzz word' and they'll be selling any ole crap with the term IPS shoved in there somehow.