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Author Topic: The 'Build Me A PC' Thread  (Read 215549 times)
Salamok
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Reply #2520 on: October 17, 2016, 03:55:42 PM

I think if I was looking at $400+ monitors I would hold out for a good sale on a 34", like the Dell U3415W or an LG 34UC88.  I have seen the Dell go for $600ish before and with the new model out (U3417)  I would be surprised if there was some forthcoming black friday/cyber monday goodness to be had.
Furiously
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Reply #2521 on: October 26, 2016, 03:15:04 AM

I just bought an Evga 1070 since they finally dropped below $400. It's pretty darn sweet, batman arkham knight gets decent framerates finally.

MisterNoisy
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Reply #2522 on: October 28, 2016, 10:27:59 PM

I just bought an Evga 1070 since they finally dropped below $400. It's pretty darn sweet, batman arkham knight gets decent framerates finally.

The 1070 is stupid overkill for 1080p @60fps, I've discovered.  It's got me debating 144hz panels vs jumping to 1440p or just saying fuck it and buying a third panel and playing everything in 5760x1080.

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Rasix
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I am the harbinger of your doom!


Reply #2523 on: October 30, 2016, 09:20:09 PM

Anyone have a recommendation for a decent mechanical gaming keyboard. Doesn't need programmable keys or any other do-dads. Just don't want it to feel cheap and don't want any weird coating on the keys.

-Rasix
Trippy
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Reply #2524 on: October 30, 2016, 09:45:53 PM

Do you know what sort of switch feel you like? E.g. this page has an overview of the Cherry switches:

http://www.keyboardco.com/blog/index.php/2012/12/an-introduction-to-cherry-mx-mechanical-switches/

I like the Cherry Reds and have tried a bunch of different keyboards with those swithes. Currently I'm using this one without the keypad attached (so in "tenkeyless mode") as I prefer narrower keyboards so my right mouse arm isn't bent as far from my left arm
schild
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Reply #2525 on: October 30, 2016, 10:10:28 PM

Anyone have a recommendation for a decent mechanical gaming keyboard. Doesn't need programmable keys or any other do-dads. Just don't want it to feel cheap and don't want any weird coating on the keys.

I have an addiction to nice keyboards, what's your budget?
Rasix
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I am the harbinger of your doom!


Reply #2526 on: October 30, 2016, 10:38:53 PM

I'd like to keep it under $100 (or around, I've got gift cards). I've mostly been using Logitech G15s and haven't had any issues with them beyond all of the extra garbage that I don't need. Bonus points if it's easy to clean. My son gucks this stuff up really quick. Would also like it if it's not terribly huge.

I have no idea what cherry MX switches I prefer as I've just been using the keyboard mentioned above. I tried a non-mechanical Razer once and hated it immensely.  I was glad when my cat knocked a glass of orange juice on it.


-Rasix
Trippy
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Reply #2527 on: October 30, 2016, 11:03:31 PM

The G15 very likely has rubber dome switches and also very likely require very little pressure to actuate (the polyurethane rubber domes provide minimal resistance). Unless you have a strong preference for the "clicky"-style switches that emulate the IBM buckling spring keyboards* like the Cherry Blues you will probably want something with similar like low actuation force and a linear feel like the Cherry Reds.

This is the one I used for a while before deciding to switch to something with a backlight. Unfortunately it looks like they aren't made anymore though there are still some people selling them. This one might be a suitable replacement though I can't vouch for it personally.

* You can actually get a real buckling spring keyboard from Unicomp if you so desire
schild
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Reply #2528 on: October 30, 2016, 11:17:33 PM

When I get into my new place I'm actually getting a deadstock Model M. Anyway, mechanicals. I'd probably recommend the Corsair Strafe MX Brown. Should be under $100 on Amazon.

When you lose your mind and want to spend $400, post again. Things get... neato.
Rasix
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I am the harbinger of your doom!


Reply #2529 on: October 31, 2016, 12:06:09 AM

They make that with both the red and brown. Difference is just the tactile feedback? Would that bother a non gamer?  Wife uses the computer as well.

-Rasix
Trippy
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Reply #2530 on: October 31, 2016, 12:50:18 AM

The two differences are the actuation force and the tactile feel. Reds are 45g actuation force. Browns are 55g force. Reds have a linear feel. Browns have a "bump" in them without the actual explicit click sound that the Blues make (yes this is all very confusing).

http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/mechanical-keyboard-guide
schild
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Reply #2531 on: October 31, 2016, 12:56:06 AM

I personally find the blue clickyness to be garbage compared to Model Ms, so I never go with them. The brown seems to be a sweet spot if I'm stuck with Cherry switches.
Rasix
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I am the harbinger of your doom!


Reply #2532 on: October 31, 2016, 02:11:42 AM

The two differences are the actuation force and the tactile feel. Reds are 45g actuation force. Browns are 55g force. Reds have a linear feel. Browns have a "bump" in them without the actual explicit click sound that the Blues make (yes this is all very confusing).

http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/mechanical-keyboard-guide


Both of those sites say the brown/reds are the same at 45g. Not sure I need the tactile feedback anyhow, since I'm not used to it. The Strafe looks nice. Comes with the reds as well.

Thanks for the info and suggestions. I learned something new. Yay.

Next time I'm in Austin, I'll need to see what a $400 keyboard is like in person.

-Rasix
Father mike
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Reply #2533 on: October 31, 2016, 07:25:17 AM

IF you don't specifically want a "gaming" keyboard, Unicomp keyboards kick ass.  They bought the factory in which IBM built the old "Model M" keyboards, and kept churning them out.  Buckling spring switches - for that CLICK you can hear three rooms away. DRILLING AND MANLINESS

I've had the same one for 10 or 12 years, and would never, ever use anything else.

Edit:  Crap, my eye slipped right over Trippy's post about Unicomp.
« Last Edit: October 31, 2016, 10:33:38 AM by Father mike »

I would like to thank Vladimir Putin for ensuring that every member of the NPR news staff has had to say "Pussy Riot" on the air multiple times.
schild
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Reply #2534 on: October 31, 2016, 10:49:33 AM

Next time I'm in Austin, I'll need to see what a $400 keyboard is like in person.

Shiittttttttttt, I don't have a $400 keyboard. I have a Das Keyboard. It's ok. Their early ones were better.
Trippy
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Reply #2535 on: October 31, 2016, 12:25:47 PM

The two differences are the actuation force and the tactile feel. Reds are 45g actuation force. Browns are 55g force. Reds have a linear feel. Browns have a "bump" in them without the actual explicit click sound that the Blues make (yes this is all very confusing).

http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/mechanical-keyboard-guide


Both of those sites say the brown/reds are the same at 45g. Not sure I need the tactile feedback anyhow, since I'm not used to it. The Strafe looks nice. Comes with the reds as well.

Thanks for the info and suggestions. I learned something new. Yay.

Next time I'm in Austin, I'll need to see what a $400 keyboard is like in person.
The operating points are at the same 45g but the Browns have have a higher force pressure point you have to get past before the force drops down.
MisterNoisy
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Reply #2536 on: October 31, 2016, 04:05:22 PM

Anyone have a recommendation for a decent mechanical gaming keyboard. Doesn't need programmable keys or any other do-dads. Just don't want it to feel cheap and don't want any weird coating on the keys.

I've lately become addicted to cheap Chinese mech boards - they're pretty solid and even with the knockoff switches, they're decent now.  Also, if it's a bust you just send it back to Amazon.

This one was my latest pickup, and I'm not mad about it at all - full RGB with a bunch of reactive options, Cherry Blue knockoff switches that respond well so far, ABS doubleshot keycaps and the switches are flush-mounted to the aluminum upper surface, so it's easy to blow dust and stuff out.

For the $40 (I had an Amazon promo code) I paid, I'm digging it so far.

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vos
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Reply #2537 on: November 01, 2016, 02:35:49 PM

I had a unicomp that I got back when they first came out with a usb model something like 14 years ago. I can't say enough good things about typing on them, however they really do have a big ass footprint. Back in 2011 I switched to https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5E4LX0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I think the filco is every bit as good as the unicomp. I started a new job where I had to work in an office this april after working from home for the last 7 years. I spent one day with the crappo dell keyboard they gave me and bought this to use at work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S5E4LX0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1  It's actually pretty good. Not the same level as the unicomp or filco imo, but good enough, and it looks like any other office keyboard.


Edit: If you want (or will settle on) black switches and can handle waiting on a rebate the Rosewill is only $25 at new egg...  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201084   
« Last Edit: November 01, 2016, 03:23:16 PM by vos »
MisterNoisy
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Reply #2538 on: November 01, 2016, 02:45:18 PM

Heh.  I had a similar response to those shitty Dell keyboards at the office and bought a Unicomp Customizer about ten years ago.  My cube neighbors swear I use that keyboard out of spite.

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Sky
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Reply #2539 on: November 01, 2016, 03:06:46 PM

I use a mini bluetooth mac keyb at work :)

At home I'm still on my (literally) crusty old Logitech RF with half the letters rubbed off for the sofa gaming. Thinking of maybe trying wired for the ability to get lighting on the keys.

Abagadro
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Reply #2540 on: November 01, 2016, 03:46:31 PM

Contemplating building a rig. Is 1440 a big enough improvement over 1080 to justify the few hundred it would take for a new monitor?

EDIT: Here is what I am thinking if it impacts the answer to that question:

Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
MSI Z170A SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card
Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case
SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
« Last Edit: November 01, 2016, 04:08:50 PM by Abagadro »

"As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron.

-H.L. Mencken
Trippy
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Reply #2541 on: November 01, 2016, 04:24:19 PM

Contemplating building a rig. Is 1440 a big enough improvement over 1080 to justify the few hundred it would take for a new monitor?
It's ~78% more pixels (2560 x 1440 vs 1920 x 1080) which is pretty significant. For me personally my eyes can't handle how small text/UI is by default at that resolution on a 27" monitor so I've been sticking with 1080p.
Abagadro
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Reply #2542 on: November 01, 2016, 04:31:54 PM

That's a good point I haven't considered. I'm practically Mr. Magoo so reading stuff on the 25 inch one I was contemplating would likely be a challenge. I guess I can always pop for one later if I'm inclined.

Do you have any suggestions/warnings on that part list I posted?

"As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron.

-H.L. Mencken
MahrinSkel
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Reply #2543 on: November 01, 2016, 05:08:27 PM

Let me throw in my obligatory "get an ultrawide" plug here. 2560x1080 is only 33% more pixels (not enough to matter in terms of stressing a video card) but in the games that support it the FOV gain is huge. You'd want a 34 inch to be equivalent to your 27" 16:9, which is such a close match you could side-by-side them almost seamlessly. There's several different models just under $400 right now, including the LG with Freesynch.

Only thing I would say about your list is that you might want to consider springing for the i7.

--Dave

--Jello Biafra: "If evolution is outlawed, only outlaws will evolve."
MisterNoisy
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Reply #2544 on: November 01, 2016, 05:27:08 PM

Contemplating building a rig. Is 1440 a big enough improvement over 1080 to justify the few hundred it would take for a new monitor?

EDIT: Here is what I am thinking if it impacts the answer to that question:

Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
Corsair H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler
MSI Z170A SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory
Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Western Digital BLACK SERIES 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card
Corsair Carbide 400C ATX Mid Tower Case
SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply


Parts list looks good to me.  There have been some rumblings about EVGA 1070/1080 cards burning out while overclocked (largely sparked by a report from Tom's Hardware Germany and Reddit) but true to form, EVGA has responded pretty quickly with a statement and a free user-applied modification to prevent similar issues.  If you're not going bonkers overclocking and then intentionally loading the GPU to 100%, it shouldn't affect you, but just in case.
« Last Edit: November 01, 2016, 05:31:57 PM by MisterNoisy »

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Abagadro
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Reply #2545 on: November 01, 2016, 05:39:32 PM

Not going to overclock because I don't know how. This is my first build and hoping it is as similar to putting together a lego set as it appears.

"As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron.

-H.L. Mencken
MahrinSkel
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When she crossed over, she was just a ship. But when she came back... she was bullshit!


Reply #2546 on: November 01, 2016, 05:44:53 PM

Not going to overclock because I don't know how. This is my first build and hoping it is as similar to putting together a lego set as it appears.
It pretty much is. If you've done your own upgrades to video cards, memory, or hard drives, there's nothing that tricky about it beyond taking basic static precautions (don't do it in a room with carpet or on a particularly dry day).

--Dwve

--Jello Biafra: "If evolution is outlawed, only outlaws will evolve."
Abagadro
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Reply #2547 on: November 01, 2016, 06:23:37 PM

Ya, I've upgraded/swapped out components before.  Only really different things that I haven't done before will be installing the chip/cooling, making sure all the power supply connections to the MB are correct, and getting the OS up and running.

"As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron.

-H.L. Mencken
Sky
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Reply #2548 on: November 02, 2016, 12:18:31 AM

Why am I completely unsurprised by EVGA having overheat issues? Because I consider a 3rd party heat sink mandatory for EVGA. There was between almost none and none in the heat goop department when I remove their heatsinks from 2 different cards, went back to an older one that was constant problems and yep, almost no paste as well. Some good paste and a sensible goddamned heat sink and they are great cards.

I'm done with them.

KallDrexx
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Reply #2549 on: November 02, 2016, 05:58:50 AM

Huh I thought EVGA was supposed to be good quality (only what I read, no actual experience with them)
rattran
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Unreasonable


Reply #2550 on: November 02, 2016, 07:01:17 AM

I've had an EVGA card burn out while under warranty and normal use, and they sent a refurb lesser next-gen card to replace it. With a 30day warranty, even though my original card still had a year left. Fuck 'em.
Sky
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I love my TV an' hug my TV an' call it 'George'.


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Reply #2551 on: November 02, 2016, 07:44:01 AM

I've had an EVGA card burn out while under warranty and normal use, and they sent a refurb lesser next-gen card to replace it. With a 30day warranty, even though my original card still had a year left. Fuck 'em.
This happened to me with my 8800 GTX (though it was a refurb 8800 GTX). I returned it to Newegg and got a new one from them. Forgot about that until you mentioned this!

Trippy
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Reply #2552 on: November 02, 2016, 08:57:39 AM

Do you have any suggestions/warnings on that part list I posted?
Since it looks like you are planning on building a non-low end system for yourself you may want to consider upgrading your SSD choice to a NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD.
Abagadro
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Reply #2553 on: November 02, 2016, 01:04:31 PM

Any suggestion on which one?

"As democracy is perfected, the office of president represents, more and more closely, the inner soul of the people. On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron.

-H.L. Mencken
Trippy
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Posts: 20560


Reply #2554 on: November 02, 2016, 01:54:15 PM

Ah, well, I was going to recommend this one Samsung SSD 960 EVO NVMe M.2 500GB for ~$250 but now I see they aren't shipping till December. So that leaves the more expensive 950 Pro or 960 Pro (shipping this month) for ~$330 which may not be worth the extra cost for you.
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